tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77640297297690565942024-03-05T17:41:46.344-08:00HobbyAudio.Coma DIY work logUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-34515325445699507272014-04-13T08:34:00.000-07:002014-04-13T08:34:00.747-07:00Test Sound DX Blame ES<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I test finished power amplifer DX Blame ES, (red pcb, german group buy). Satisfy with the sound, and minimum noise at all. <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/2012/08/cheap-dac-kit-mini2496-ak4396.html" target="_blank">I use my dac akm4396</a> to feed power amp, this time i use single channel., check it my video on youtube.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/NOtLSc30CxA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-83983329963042248622013-11-23T20:01:00.002-08:002013-11-23T20:11:39.832-08:00Power Supply Amplifier Diode MUR3060<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I found cheap diode GI MUR3060 from local store, then i made a power supply layout for dual secondary transformer and center tapped.<br />
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<b>Dual secondary with 4x MUR3060 :</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp43AnjlGdolxexjdnTKCoGKACxvUr3cdODvv7pzqUK4u-_7c6j0HIAP5LXtDy9ejuvXbPzmTL4sjJuUJQa_3DyIXC60YoTVISahbt_lrodmLe_Jg9ji6hoBms9QTiF87vObvQTraUrRs/s1600/mur3060-rev.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp43AnjlGdolxexjdnTKCoGKACxvUr3cdODvv7pzqUK4u-_7c6j0HIAP5LXtDy9ejuvXbPzmTL4sjJuUJQa_3DyIXC60YoTVISahbt_lrodmLe_Jg9ji6hoBms9QTiF87vObvQTraUrRs/s400/mur3060-rev.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Download link in coreldraw file : <span data-reactid=".r[53j68].[1][3][1]{comment10202654975600713_4288355}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][2]" style="background-color: #fafbfb; color: #4e5665; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.199999809265137px; line-height: 11.199999809265137px;"> </span><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".r[53j68].[1][3][1]{comment10202654975600713_4288355}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3]" style="background-color: #fafbfb; color: #4e5665; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.199999809265137px; line-height: 11.199999809265137px;"><span data-reactid=".r[53j68].[1][3][1]{comment10202654975600713_4288355}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0]"><a class="" data-reactid=".r[53j68].[1][3][1]{comment10202654975600713_4288355}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[0]" href="http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Furlz.so%2Fl%2Fmu-nof322n3%2F&h=oAQFVaEjr" rel="nofollow" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer;" target="_blank">http://urlz.so/l/mu-nof322n3/</a></span></span></i><br />
<i><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".r[53j68].[1][3][1]{comment10202654975600713_4288355}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3]" style="background-color: #fafbfb; color: #4e5665; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11.199999809265137px; line-height: 11.199999809265137px;"><br /></span></i>
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<span style="color: #4e5665; font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 11.1875px;"><b>Center Tapped Version with 2x MUR3060 :</b></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VXtSl9-uqEtQ6W-_6wkbu50R5AVF7p-YDCfRK8JAarKah8HgUa4CB3qDSwcwwcuXiyoLSNktNW4AnSWbxAzAhNpC7TIvWN_zVcWrQ7WakTuImOa3o9HJT-tuyIWDacQ3LeHob6T2KSI/s1600/mur3060-ct.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9VXtSl9-uqEtQ6W-_6wkbu50R5AVF7p-YDCfRK8JAarKah8HgUa4CB3qDSwcwwcuXiyoLSNktNW4AnSWbxAzAhNpC7TIvWN_zVcWrQ7WakTuImOa3o9HJT-tuyIWDacQ3LeHob6T2KSI/s400/mur3060-ct.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Download link in coreldraw file : <a href="http://urlz.so/l/9fspxwb4">http://urlz.so/l/9fspxwb4</a></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7IlSfq8QlxFXgA7Nzv04jFdR1OZmKBIH38sXJukXB_9GONYdplMVRMrvzVLRL4b4C1YDottYzSjChbIf6Rb-5fG7-RmSKtZgwPAOBU0pODgDasuYY6VtJkjQ06BvdRK5JoE036-bFDc/s1600/mur-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7IlSfq8QlxFXgA7Nzv04jFdR1OZmKBIH38sXJukXB_9GONYdplMVRMrvzVLRL4b4C1YDottYzSjChbIf6Rb-5fG7-RmSKtZgwPAOBU0pODgDasuYY6VtJkjQ06BvdRK5JoE036-bFDc/s640/mur-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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bottom view<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCYX0WXfzm_A2NrwJeba4nLn7Hi1t6vZDJ3qFaDwh_eNZCIEKx4BS8KAbF1rowqbdvBdbwHRYRl28zNOOqqucxTAhZR46KtLViJTOFtU8ik-A7w4HQGIXzyCc1UB11jkceIHMvIkIBbNU/s1600/bottom.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCYX0WXfzm_A2NrwJeba4nLn7Hi1t6vZDJ3qFaDwh_eNZCIEKx4BS8KAbF1rowqbdvBdbwHRYRl28zNOOqqucxTAhZR46KtLViJTOFtU8ik-A7w4HQGIXzyCc1UB11jkceIHMvIkIBbNU/s640/bottom.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-63986194059673991572013-08-29T16:40:00.003-07:002014-02-16T10:37:50.895-08:00Transparent Box for DAC AKM4396<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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An Update for my <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/2012/08/cheap-dac-kit-mini2496-ak4396.html" target="_blank">dac akm4396 before,</a> transparent box for safety. I made it under $8</div>
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Update : on December 2013, I made test / compare with <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=centrance+dac+mini&espv=210&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=5QQBU720L8PorQfR9oHwDQ&sqi=2&ved=0CEwQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=965" target="_blank">Centrance Dac MINI</a> , and suprised my dac have same sound signature as Centrance, I found on information that chip actually same use AKM4396, my dac slight better in high frequency.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWdQzYCzjLLSRVwlq_3R9NBXNUM9A5bmUzLuGSP5OujNEJC13qk1fEMb_swor2dJZnkJeyeH-GWy0k3NaVjtt9d3bd9tCh9B_cnszisVWsGBSDvbN5yjB02FGviduJX3YVjG2fMWW3xs/s1600/dac-akm4396-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWdQzYCzjLLSRVwlq_3R9NBXNUM9A5bmUzLuGSP5OujNEJC13qk1fEMb_swor2dJZnkJeyeH-GWy0k3NaVjtt9d3bd9tCh9B_cnszisVWsGBSDvbN5yjB02FGviduJX3YVjG2fMWW3xs/s320/dac-akm4396-a.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTrfUe6_5lZjrYZgRNf-YpUmDs7Nbpgrr8oK9IObNoYf3iBi_PbI2-HUnCnobvRGYKpx6Ed5b12RL11oL3P5qZrX_8EVAfDRUoy_FpeZmt_Xe3g0D_qFn3P4FUDdzvzaVKYZfEJtl63g/s1600/dac-akm4396-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTrfUe6_5lZjrYZgRNf-YpUmDs7Nbpgrr8oK9IObNoYf3iBi_PbI2-HUnCnobvRGYKpx6Ed5b12RL11oL3P5qZrX_8EVAfDRUoy_FpeZmt_Xe3g0D_qFn3P4FUDdzvzaVKYZfEJtl63g/s320/dac-akm4396-b.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiGfDsyG7yzlhOcQs8Ai8LBgM_s7kQ7k6WmqWPf_zkkE8A2jEBaEtHDce07aTBKLS6KS9VahAR4TjW7SxDt14apR4joMZ3kYXcaSE4icBv4HKvNXuIjtUfrrcFTmbvotRNiNq8KrMsfk/s1600/dac-akm4396-c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiGfDsyG7yzlhOcQs8Ai8LBgM_s7kQ7k6WmqWPf_zkkE8A2jEBaEtHDce07aTBKLS6KS9VahAR4TjW7SxDt14apR4joMZ3kYXcaSE4icBv4HKvNXuIjtUfrrcFTmbvotRNiNq8KrMsfk/s320/dac-akm4396-c.jpg" height="320" width="244" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-55536152131071900342012-08-30T01:33:00.001-07:002012-08-30T01:33:16.222-07:00TENOR USB TO SPDIF / IIS CONVERTER<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0p4gmuDHhFWVGFfnjIHjrGiFIOBCRLgG_26Ac1UGDOyCO3LuG1PcRe8D8B7sKh1ul3b7aHgobycX6yut0gVuzJV2_DkKF55acweKZ9FNbC89zRYbDXfH73JyNgAvTEl0ucv6Heow7a8/s1600/tenor1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu0p4gmuDHhFWVGFfnjIHjrGiFIOBCRLgG_26Ac1UGDOyCO3LuG1PcRe8D8B7sKh1ul3b7aHgobycX6yut0gVuzJV2_DkKF55acweKZ9FNbC89zRYbDXfH73JyNgAvTEl0ucv6Heow7a8/s1600/tenor1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB TO SPDIF/IIS CONVERTER TENOR TE7022L</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHOZYamYGh3A7DfrEoZjyvRNawq5Q557HkGfC9DBAtKj4QxGJBJzm93O6LHAykas2XBTPqD9Y8v-iwnQGA9e7QdFRfk2VsNUt06rI8xGe1zUPfH-ooPX2xQRV-y6LnnPBMH9AvV82OmPQ/s1600/sata-usb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHOZYamYGh3A7DfrEoZjyvRNawq5Q557HkGfC9DBAtKj4QxGJBJzm93O6LHAykas2XBTPqD9Y8v-iwnQGA9e7QdFRfk2VsNUt06rI8xGe1zUPfH-ooPX2xQRV-y6LnnPBMH9AvV82OmPQ/s400/sata-usb.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB CABLE FROM SATA HDD CABLE</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1E31dI8os9clGV9h0ErLQJ6p53jmH0gpZOxLuJ-JhlhSg92ULgXYATnnXgFSdmofJphjvt69wljUGf3olfnRQiJ77XSUlSVz_YbR15HJm1l7ZZq0CBSVaCaeeKJ-VaQsGPyynTC7rkk/s1600/utp-usb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1E31dI8os9clGV9h0ErLQJ6p53jmH0gpZOxLuJ-JhlhSg92ULgXYATnnXgFSdmofJphjvt69wljUGf3olfnRQiJ77XSUlSVz_YbR15HJm1l7ZZq0CBSVaCaeeKJ-VaQsGPyynTC7rkk/s400/utp-usb.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB CABLE FROM UTP/LAN CABLE</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-37096825178298410212012-08-27T09:10:00.000-07:002012-10-01T23:55:23.131-07:00CHEAP DAC KIT MINI2496 AK4396<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfUDmxufyLDAAlydyBS-AGCat7ON8RDaV4HEn-HrhDbuD9_hcwMjbFY40E2VtLLK2Ciq5-4t9NXD48AmPhwCak0mmS3ff1Ng7584DBte8v1z1xqOzXPM_6-EZv3WWZA20rq9ajFCLW5w/s1600/akm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfUDmxufyLDAAlydyBS-AGCat7ON8RDaV4HEn-HrhDbuD9_hcwMjbFY40E2VtLLK2Ciq5-4t9NXD48AmPhwCak0mmS3ff1Ng7584DBte8v1z1xqOzXPM_6-EZv3WWZA20rq9ajFCLW5w/s640/akm.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DAC AKM AK4396</td></tr>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><b>Introduction </b></span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> Stems</span> <span class="hps">from the desire</span> <span class="hps">to make</span> <span class="hps">DIY</span> <span class="hps">dac</span>, <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">the first project</span>-based <span class="hps">DAC</span> <span class="hps">chip</span> <span class="hps">TDA1541</span> <span class="hps">philips</span> <span class="hps">version</span> <span class="hps">of</span> <span class="hps">NOS</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>non <span class="hps atn">over-</span>sampling). <span class="hps">My first project</span> <span class="hps">delayed</span> <span class="hps">first because</span> <span class="hps">of time, distance</span><span class="">, and</span> <span class="hps">components.</span> <span class="hps">A strong desire</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">make the</span> <span class="hps">dac</span> <span class="hps">does not stop at</span> <span class="hps">all</span>, <span class="hps">so</span> <span class="hps">I decided to create</span> <span class="hps">an alternative</span> <span class="hps">DAC</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">AKM</span> <span class="hps">AK4396</span> <span class="hps">chip</span> <span class="hps">based</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>Asahi <span class="hps">Kasei</span> <span class="hps">Microdevices</span>). I think this chip is "worth" from economic side,the price of this dac will not hurt </span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"> your wallet.</span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> If</span> <span class="hps">you follow</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">supplied</span> <span class="hps">kit</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">ebay</span> <span class="hps">seller</span> <span class="hps">is not totally wrong</span>, don't forget to choose <span class="hps">presoldered</span> <span class="hps">kit</span> <span class="hps">smd</span> <span class="hps">ic</span> <span class="hps">component</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span class="">cirrus</span> <span class="hps">logic</span> <span class="hps">8416</span>, <span class="hps">AK4396</span>, <span class="hps">hex</span> <span class="hps">inverter</span> <span class="hps">HC04</span>) <span class="hps">because</span> <span class="hps">this is the most</span> <span class="hps">difficult</span> <span class="hps">part</span> <span class="hps">soldered</span><span class="">. Also don't forget to buy R-Core transformer that sugested with dac kit, good transformer to pair with this dac (after report of impression in diyaudio.com forum).</span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Some dac data copied from seller : </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">•</span><span style="font-size: small;"> 128x Oversampling<br />• Sampling Rate: 30kHz ~ 216kHz<br />• 24Bit 8x Digital Filter (Slow-roll-off option)</span></span></span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">• </span></span></span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ripple: ± 0.005dB, Attenuation: 75dB<br />• High Tolerance to Clock Jitter<br />• Low Distortion Differential Output<br />• DSD data input available<br />• Digital de-emphasis for 32, 44.1, 48kHz sampling<br />• Soft Mute<br />• Digital Attenuator (Linear 256 steps)<br />• THD + N:-100dB<br />• DR, S / N: 120dB<br />• I / F format: MSB justified, 16/20/24bit LSB justified, I2S<br />• Master Clock: Normal Speed: 256fs, 384fs, 512fs, 768fs or 1152fs<br />Power: Dual 13-15V + Single 9-15V or dual 13-15V only</span></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">This is bareboard dac AK4396 unpopulated with simple signal/power trace </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">route<i></i> and Bill Of Material (BOM) </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> <i>(credit to dario aka. cleve fremen of diyaudio.com)</i></span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> :</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2soUbioUI7k/UDtaecxCbjI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/ynFL2PMqMTQ/s1600/PCBAK4396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="560" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2soUbioUI7k/UDtaecxCbjI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/ynFL2PMqMTQ/s640/PCBAK4396.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PCB with traces signal and power section </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Link of </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Bill Of Material : </span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">on Scribd: <a href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/104081277" target="_blank">BOM AK4396 and AK4393/4395</a></span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">on Mediafire : <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/view/?bm1wf4ncvhq03rf" target="_blank">BOM</a></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Please notice to follow on BOM , that different value of resistor and capacitor LPF's section, in AK4396 use : 2,4K ,150R resistors and 680 pF capacitors. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rCMJXK9tK6A/UDtaiFVrxZI/AAAAAAAAAzU/yxdr9-Qn3Q0/s1600/Outstage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="380" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rCMJXK9tK6A/UDtaiFVrxZI/AAAAAAAAAzU/yxdr9-Qn3Q0/s400/Outstage.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LPF Section AK4393/4395 and AK4396 Comparison</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">On the output stage we have some option to applied :</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">- Opamp output</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">- LOT's (Line Out Transformer)</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">- Tubes output</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">- Capacitors output</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">I decide to choose first option opamp output stage because easy to implementation, simple, minimum workspace, also cheap. If don't like the signature of sound easily can swap out for change (use dip socket). This time i give a try opamp from </span>Linear Technology LT 1361 (dual).</div>
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span>
<b><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">Tweaking</span></b><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">According to the BOM above, we can make some tweaking on parts : resistor, electrolytic and film capacitor, diode and regulator then applied to the specific section, especially LPF and Regulator.</span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0XOD1-Dtfczgk7cT7_CF7SWFQJOjh0TvNHc_q01aBYFe7xnHWzws1cCKXGAR9cUWxv5gDsqmS548JhRV5uXKUAl6CzMsJtrFYxBJ1qdZGzuNmpa-1vwM4oUm6Rcx5pAGUNvTuFvGioBg/s1600/dac+akm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0XOD1-Dtfczgk7cT7_CF7SWFQJOjh0TvNHc_q01aBYFe7xnHWzws1cCKXGAR9cUWxv5gDsqmS548JhRV5uXKUAl6CzMsJtrFYxBJ1qdZGzuNmpa-1vwM4oUm6Rcx5pAGUNvTuFvGioBg/s640/dac+akm.jpg" width="548" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My DAC AK4396 on the way of tweaking.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><b>Update 02 October 2012</b></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGhhfnnMSHg/UGp1ieh88eI/AAAAAAAAA1c/xGWLB93GnxU/s1600/dac-4396-tweak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGhhfnnMSHg/UGp1ieh88eI/AAAAAAAAA1c/xGWLB93GnxU/s640/dac-4396-tweak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DAC AK4396 near final tweaking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b>1. Change Regulator 7809,7812 and 7912 to LM317 and LM337 (lower noise)</b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b>2. Change Standard Diode Bridges to sinterglass diode Telefunken (tfk) BYW54 (2A)</b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b>3. Change film caps on LPF section to sprague orange drop 330nf</b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b>4. Change PSU capacitor to Nichicon FW 4700 35v</b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<u><b>Here the easy way to change regulators 7809/7812 and 7912</b></u> :</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG93458yKrlJ95yiYUdLlndS6OFxY-0zYuctpwrf3jfB4wg7ECdYfpprX3DvUQmIH1C6YoE1igdBJ_bBdGGmyi3Yan7y6IKT-AZ2IGUUWbTqL3z9p1CsTZfF-LadDAqQlJPlQo_kYJkXs/s1600/7912toLM337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG93458yKrlJ95yiYUdLlndS6OFxY-0zYuctpwrf3jfB4wg7ECdYfpprX3DvUQmIH1C6YoE1igdBJ_bBdGGmyi3Yan7y6IKT-AZ2IGUUWbTqL3z9p1CsTZfF-LadDAqQlJPlQo_kYJkXs/s400/7912toLM337.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Change regulator 7912 to LM337</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">Note : To reach 12v on 7812 change R2 to 36k. or use <a href="http://www.a-ling.net/alweb/hifi/lm317_lm337_reg_calc/lm317_lm337_reg.htm" target="_blank">LM 317/337 calculator.</a> to find right combination between R1 and R2. </span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi938hE_E3k6SmwE17IeBuwmev0i399DCPxCTSPJVBVCAHGjom0zxf71ujbuNOof4IHry6uvnYexsZZHfQlw0zi2lcfEYSohXSOBXBLazJ1yv34Rhv7TqE3U4I4XiHWWZQqVjw6K3Ag7VE/s1600/7809+to+LM317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi938hE_E3k6SmwE17IeBuwmev0i399DCPxCTSPJVBVCAHGjom0zxf71ujbuNOof4IHry6uvnYexsZZHfQlw0zi2lcfEYSohXSOBXBLazJ1yv34Rhv7TqE3U4I4XiHWWZQqVjw6K3Ag7VE/s400/7809+to+LM317.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Change regulator 7809 to LM317</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span>
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span>
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-34753884391113047402011-06-07T03:19:00.000-07:002014-10-07T00:42:51.648-07:00Layout B1 Buffer by Nelson Pass - Shunt Regulator by Salas<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
A Layout for DCB1 Salas Shunt Reg made by my self, for DIY purpose.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ferynov2/7806904750/" title="Direcet Coupled B1-Hype Version by ferynov2, on Flickr"><img alt="Direcet Coupled B1-Hype Version" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8444/7806904750_c8cc5dd2a2_z.jpg" height="312" width="640" /></a>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
Layout B1 Buffer by Nelson Pass - Shunt Regulator by Salas<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Update 23-06-2011:</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Tq2qwpkLQ/TgN_PgWbukI/AAAAAAAAAvg/w0_gbPsTpaU/s576/B1%252520Hype.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Tq2qwpkLQ/TgN_PgWbukI/AAAAAAAAAvg/w0_gbPsTpaU/s400/B1%252520Hype.jpg" height="353" width="400" /></a></div>
Finished pcb, i feel good at pcb made by local pcb maker. That is one marking<br />
missing on capacitor power. Since on the bottom of capacitor not too visible.<br />
<br />
Today is about one year, i just keep the pcb's, i try to finish this project.<br />
Oh, my poor time to finish it. I have plan to gradually finish it.<br />
<br />
<b>Update 14-02-2013:</b><br />
<br />
<b>I</b> Made mistakes in trace<b> Relay </b>delay section and <b>diode masking</b> orientation , here is my mistakes<b> :</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMt9CSJiO3Tq6fEQZe9Dh20xZZJ5i06zixBo57DNfraxWx4sKYqV9Omr2va3z9dp42xvvNMsIlG9SfZhLUo5sE04v-CiN2fME4gUC3MfFmxb7l5BAq0i_elYE7Rq117HMr2GmQ7uXRZrw/s1600/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+Dioda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMt9CSJiO3Tq6fEQZe9Dh20xZZJ5i06zixBo57DNfraxWx4sKYqV9Omr2va3z9dp42xvvNMsIlG9SfZhLUo5sE04v-CiN2fME4gUC3MfFmxb7l5BAq0i_elYE7Rq117HMr2GmQ7uXRZrw/s640/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+Dioda.jpg" height="316" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXnAMBZxF6TSY7Z0sIH3vAAd4GAgsfFmwAOOMWkMH6uzJnrZKIAwxkRj3mL-CWALLdePXR6MBIPztGnUAvDraK5vFAM6njHpSxXWv3ZCgUSOODnHCoenLve5Xp57oC1M9yX9_SwdsD1A/s1600/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+traces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXnAMBZxF6TSY7Z0sIH3vAAd4GAgsfFmwAOOMWkMH6uzJnrZKIAwxkRj3mL-CWALLdePXR6MBIPztGnUAvDraK5vFAM6njHpSxXWv3ZCgUSOODnHCoenLve5Xp57oC1M9yX9_SwdsD1A/s400/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+traces.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>The Solutions are reverse front to back the diodes and make a short jumper under pcb.</b><br />
<br />
After fixing that problem my <b>"HYPE" Salas Shunt Reg. B1 Buffer</b>, normal and on fire! <br />
Next time i will tweak for <b>HOT RODED.</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw960xsSmrnkM1ZiNXBPdW85VWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">layout for free in pdf. please click this link.</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0rOype_HmKFi-SqYXXzIqSxo3x7rD8PqZtxgR97BdLhbFyWS7AqSvzr0_30jgCy1QSjXJOEscGauLLy01VFQpgXurAUIviV7Wghym8W08mf1idqVya54lb7w53TEwgMoi3JkNTXp1mY/s1600/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+-+On+Fire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0rOype_HmKFi-SqYXXzIqSxo3x7rD8PqZtxgR97BdLhbFyWS7AqSvzr0_30jgCy1QSjXJOEscGauLLy01VFQpgXurAUIviV7Wghym8W08mf1idqVya54lb7w53TEwgMoi3JkNTXp1mY/s640/Salas+Shunt+Reg+DCB1+Hype+-+On+Fire.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-16358201753886423372011-05-16T22:58:00.000-07:002011-05-16T22:58:49.294-07:00Finished Gainclone LM3875<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">After long time waiting , I finally made Gainclone LM3785 project finish with wood enclosure. The size of wood box not too small or too big, enough dimension 25cm x 30cm x 9cm.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MjYgNCvhOEA/TdICHjatL2I/AAAAAAAAArI/oThk9EVmuKY/s1600/DSC01510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MjYgNCvhOEA/TdICHjatL2I/AAAAAAAAArI/oThk9EVmuKY/s640/DSC01510.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJyYMVzDuArkqHaqrrTNGFMJf-DR2uVco96nZqX4ofdxMdqBGlOJ3KVciwgIRunxc-dRlsYQU9BJRuqU31DMHlfRdfr7FkQA27kcnyOXOYgcRlirFPlFKga-Y-GoPIKbXhkKdAYV74Hw/s1600/DSC01511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJyYMVzDuArkqHaqrrTNGFMJf-DR2uVco96nZqX4ofdxMdqBGlOJ3KVciwgIRunxc-dRlsYQU9BJRuqU31DMHlfRdfr7FkQA27kcnyOXOYgcRlirFPlFKga-Y-GoPIKbXhkKdAYV74Hw/s640/DSC01511.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKnjLBHFBVUymZA-hq8rhrd56s9OHs9bA3sroBAs9v7NR6MWzU4Ztnuzcvd_StT71ICDc2AAf2qdIdgQjKVW13cXyFBrlT4MiwEvPyWadNKTa4DGhp_D81T_-Pt67gtKQSGvguloclbA/s1600/DSC01513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKnjLBHFBVUymZA-hq8rhrd56s9OHs9bA3sroBAs9v7NR6MWzU4Ztnuzcvd_StT71ICDc2AAf2qdIdgQjKVW13cXyFBrlT4MiwEvPyWadNKTa4DGhp_D81T_-Pt67gtKQSGvguloclbA/s320/DSC01513.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">How its sound? I feel this is better than my LM3886 for slow/mellow music........... </div><br />
</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-80324252660216967972011-04-17T16:28:00.000-07:002011-04-17T16:33:36.765-07:00My Collections of Vintage Audio Gear<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;">Just showing pictures to remember and documented my vintage audio gear. The gear is integrated amplifiers and CD Players, also speakers but i still find the picture in my computer. All item i got from flea market execpt speaker that i got from friend on Bandung.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>This is SANSUI AU-555A </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVn2N7fQypW_DFEz1RXVnqpSKFkEHVT7t1U32cijAk6eu4joHwi1dfKTcwXTvGGiBT_ZT3SaQlhq-MEAAvRhni68t0DUzKdiTMs3v0mUGyotKZXj1noIEup2y8nMJJyV9NNMK6wWQsEow/s1600/Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVn2N7fQypW_DFEz1RXVnqpSKFkEHVT7t1U32cijAk6eu4joHwi1dfKTcwXTvGGiBT_ZT3SaQlhq-MEAAvRhni68t0DUzKdiTMs3v0mUGyotKZXj1noIEup2y8nMJJyV9NNMK6wWQsEow/s400/Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sansui AU-555A</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-leDEqhBgBgo/Tatwq5geIEI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/y1Bsf6-LOxg/s1600/Inside+Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-leDEqhBgBgo/Tatwq5geIEI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/y1Bsf6-LOxg/s400/Inside+Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view of AU-555A</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yWjo1UT1oyM/Tatwzo0ubrI/AAAAAAAAAqY/AEj4OvKA-Yk/s1600/bottom+Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yWjo1UT1oyM/Tatwzo0ubrI/AAAAAAAAAqY/AEj4OvKA-Yk/s400/bottom+Sansui+AU-555A.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom view AU-555A</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Sansui AU-5500, next time i will update with inside parts</b></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvkr7n2CHxX-wdUtxh9Pev1gXSbO5mfTNRrHRnOeYt-ZXeUGSFhXnlsvvANlxu9tewkTkf2DssEdpMA1dGn0dzcNkCknFMjeM5vJbR-DNGLfXY1tFKpvurBgkdgc8TQ0cNKms_XSQkOv0/s1600/Sansui+AU-5500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvkr7n2CHxX-wdUtxh9Pev1gXSbO5mfTNRrHRnOeYt-ZXeUGSFhXnlsvvANlxu9tewkTkf2DssEdpMA1dGn0dzcNkCknFMjeM5vJbR-DNGLfXY1tFKpvurBgkdgc8TQ0cNKms_XSQkOv0/s400/Sansui+AU-5500.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><b>CD Player Philips CD880, original made in Belgium, good build quality and rare.</b></div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiW2ZPnKfWoWmW1J_7x91HSRgakWVPckHqHltxVLn0uulDQzvchzgaGO-eUpniAFNysxYUIhy9BqvzoaLkrUswouDM4Qi-6JTTkyqpNZM_r-uNTDpvVIUkE8ZtxbgwePbtKACzUJ_9KQ0/s1600/philips+CD880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiW2ZPnKfWoWmW1J_7x91HSRgakWVPckHqHltxVLn0uulDQzvchzgaGO-eUpniAFNysxYUIhy9BqvzoaLkrUswouDM4Qi-6JTTkyqpNZM_r-uNTDpvVIUkE8ZtxbgwePbtKACzUJ_9KQ0/s400/philips+CD880.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Philips CD880</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhfq-VjVe2CnbSeoet39K14a8kmaLZdLqmIERslQZOdwfnSXf0OyZZqHYghJpmzy2-JTaFvSwqash2_1dFsorNI1AWnsQ6wU1CZTSjhzY7TER36xv4FdyHxv40YerJgxk7DQIlLd0MrM/s1600/philips+CD880-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhfq-VjVe2CnbSeoet39K14a8kmaLZdLqmIERslQZOdwfnSXf0OyZZqHYghJpmzy2-JTaFvSwqash2_1dFsorNI1AWnsQ6wU1CZTSjhzY7TER36xv4FdyHxv40YerJgxk7DQIlLd0MrM/s400/philips+CD880-b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside of CD880 with high quality parts</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M9S9aFLlDRg/Tatx0eecvmI/AAAAAAAAAqM/KY3rjaT9DAE/s1600/Philips+DAC+TDA1541-S1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M9S9aFLlDRg/Tatx0eecvmI/AAAAAAAAAqM/KY3rjaT9DAE/s400/Philips+DAC+TDA1541-S1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closer Look at DAC chip, using TDA1541A Single Crown (S1)</td></tr>
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<iframe style="display: none; visibility: hidden;"></iframe><iframe style="display: none; visibility: hidden;"></iframe><br />
<div id="divLookup" style="-moz-border-radius: 3px 3px 3px 3px; background-color: #ffff77; color: black; left: 634px; padding: 3px; position: absolute; top: 1171px; z-index: 10000;"><img border="0" src="data:image/gif,GIF89a%12%12%B3%FF%FF%FF%F7%F7%EF%CC%CC%CC%BD%BE%BD%99%99%99ZYZRUR%FE%01%02%21%F9%04%04%14%FF%2C%12%12%04X0%C8I%2B%1D8%EB%3D%E4%60%28%8A%85%17%0AG*%8C%40%19%7CJ%08%C4%B1%92%26z%C76%FE%02%07%C2%89v%F0%7Dz%C3b%C8u%14%82V5%23o%A7%13%19L%BCY-%25%7D%A6l%DF%D0%F5%C7%02%85%5B%D82%90%CBT%87%D8i7%88Y%A8%DB%EFx%8B%DE%12%01%3B" /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-46943194730205102432011-04-12T16:00:00.000-07:002011-04-12T17:01:12.174-07:00Identify Good-Original Capacitors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"> Long time ago i have mind to help people with a simple drawing that contain of typical / physical identity some big-original manufactures of capacitor. Currently i added six of them, that usually find on global market today and usually other "fake manufactured" hijacking design. This is quick drawing for guidance to pick good capacitors. Please do some search of data sheet capacitors on internet if you want make sure that capacitors is original, sometimes you can't find datasheet because of out off productions (too old), or missing datasheet from their sites. In this drawing include : Panasonic / Matshusita, Rubycon, Sanyo, ELNA, nichicon, Nippon Chemicon (UCC/NCC).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4zuMLcUvbg/TaTUHKlGLXI/AAAAAAAAAo8/C303OvQO9bw/s1600/type-capacitors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4zuMLcUvbg/TaTUHKlGLXI/AAAAAAAAAo8/C303OvQO9bw/s400/type-capacitors.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">identify top-bottom section of capacitors<br />
(Click for Larger picture)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Please inform me by leaving comment, then i will update periodically if i found some good information.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-37939614557909316492011-04-10T14:16:00.000-07:002011-04-10T14:16:20.315-07:00Worth Modification QLS-350 a Big Leap in DAP<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;">This morning, my friend give order to me to modification his digital audio player (DAP) called QLS-350 from QLS HiFi. This player only support WAV file format, with good spesification like :</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">-Digital output chip: CS8406.<br />
-DAC Chip: Wolfson WM8740.<br />
-LVP: AD8656.<br />
-Headphone Amp chip: MAX9722A.<br />
-Battery Type: 7.4V Li-Po battery of Model General Specifications, maximum size: 55mm * 31mm * 16mm; the capacity is usually among 800-1100mAH.<br />
-Use 2PPM 11.2896 TCXO Crystal (crystal JITTER is below 10PS)<br />
-The power supply part use several LDO, respectively offer power for: crystal oscillator, the main chip, the digital output chip, DAC digital, DAC analog, headphone amplifier, display control, to ensure the best sound quality.<br />
-In portable system, fever grade materials are applied: Kemet tantalum capacitors, YAGEO SMD 1% precision resistors, high precision SMD capacitor of Samsung, ELNA electrolytic capacitors, ALPS potentiometer.</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Some people have done modification too with their self preference, i not gonna mad to totally mod, until change the original case, this is just simple mod, yes! only recaping few of capacitors with my caps in drawer.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here is the places that i gonna mod :</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXqC1pNTpoUfrH-UoCU_eAusuBR82n3cLgT9GCo9ESj32E9XqilwNyFp-FUgwm2fHzd_aYnPD0UzUrNE2m2Q0uPX6dEeiUnTOY-bclweCDYkdDd09PHbjGKQnXTfM8jY7w7Zb4MsvD0k/s1600/qls1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXqC1pNTpoUfrH-UoCU_eAusuBR82n3cLgT9GCo9ESj32E9XqilwNyFp-FUgwm2fHzd_aYnPD0UzUrNE2m2Q0uPX6dEeiUnTOY-bclweCDYkdDd09PHbjGKQnXTfM8jY7w7Zb4MsvD0k/s640/qls1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> Closer look below at modification field, capacitor that i colored is Elna Silmic II with 16v voltage each. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ysbB-V0V-pqYhGX-bguos-tVOCu0UkEN-ZOzyvGvFf6d89PXbcjUMP0zVjVtbP0LZ-ozNidR3ApgDPUZ0Lnfp25s4lBFbGGHKUm2fGOL1cJic3YNz9aWqKEedEhj1s6JNqRVFqIGHNw/s1600/insert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ysbB-V0V-pqYhGX-bguos-tVOCu0UkEN-ZOzyvGvFf6d89PXbcjUMP0zVjVtbP0LZ-ozNidR3ApgDPUZ0Lnfp25s4lBFbGGHKUm2fGOL1cJic3YNz9aWqKEedEhj1s6JNqRVFqIGHNw/s640/insert.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">QLS pcb closer look</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQHxPEO0sPOry97j-B20zGk9gyILCV293m-jBHG0t9uPI72CKNIM3tCU2-C6hgtiP339mZ_XXYaF9ud9iu1gaNiPwLiU97VXyk0969gq1zT_YfFniciHZzSF8wfCYwmEWx_csKPUfmMU/s640/DSC01492.JPG" width="640" /></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">With parts above i replace capacitor in colored shading, replaced Elna Silmic II 10uF/16v on signal input path with Wima 1,5uF/50v i think is enough small and reliable price in position. 4,7 uF/16v i replaced with Silmic II 10uF/50v little bigger in that place, Silmic II 47uF/16v with Panasonic FC 100uF/35v, in the end place bypass capacitor on Panasonic FC 1000uF/25v legs. I not replace this one with Panasonic HFQ 3300/16v because the hole is tight, and the size is longer than original. I use cardas solder that make sure perfect joint and have good clarity.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The result is very good, reveal the hidden detail, more clarity, separation very good..... a worthful mod of QLS-350.</div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RxOeCE2aJDY/TaIU1FgudmI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/oi40Q6XTU5k/s1600/DSC01495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RxOeCE2aJDY/TaIU1FgudmI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/oi40Q6XTU5k/s640/DSC01495.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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<iframe style="display: none; visibility: hidden;"></iframe></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-2747824290535789732011-03-31T13:58:00.000-07:002013-11-11T00:20:19.143-08:00New Project : DX Blame ES!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
This is my new project power amplifeir that popular in diyaudio forum called<b> DX BLAME</b>. DX Blame itself have other variants, definitely i choose ES version for best sounding / music, some other people choose ST series that have stability, however i still love ES and wanna know how stable? first thing first i gather some components, red pcb from dx german division, thanks to rudi and metal (omar). I use 2 pair of sanken's SC2922 and SC1216.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ljhiK0TCOnI/TZTfM_aUSxI/AAAAAAAAAl0/RkiT9Ggd01o/s1600/DSC01478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ljhiK0TCOnI/TZTfM_aUSxI/AAAAAAAAAl0/RkiT9Ggd01o/s640/DSC01478.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
I use medium material that have originality, general resistors are PRP 1/4w, some Mills,Holco..etc, capacitor is not to expensive that elna DourexII,Cerafine,RJ3,pan FC's,silvered mica, and muse KZ. I think its enough material. later if i have time will tweak with some better part on signal section.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMXUAWm2zrjpqUSEdvgpB6bhzQqp4I9kw27hdYm14ocgNIOXeqXJEVJ-yU8pHKtHyb_2VB5K4cA328LFpdc4hj5Nb-kQcL5x_kgJTra3ao1l-FE5RiFL8gw7xugOWc8cI4DSJnarOr8Rk/s1600/DSC01481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMXUAWm2zrjpqUSEdvgpB6bhzQqp4I9kw27hdYm14ocgNIOXeqXJEVJ-yU8pHKtHyb_2VB5K4cA328LFpdc4hj5Nb-kQcL5x_kgJTra3ao1l-FE5RiFL8gw7xugOWc8cI4DSJnarOr8Rk/s640/DSC01481.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Soldered some components on red pcb's. I still not solder transistor, waiting dimension of heatsink (i'm drilling first with dimension of pcb holes). Then I prepare powersupply that capable to supply both DX Blame ES. I use <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/2011/03/diy-pcb-and-power-supply-amplifier-part.html">Samehada </a>pcb that i created before, and populated with 8 capacitors.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FsysrDk8X44/TZThNkAM5fI/AAAAAAAAAmI/G6QPl7dI8T8/s1600/DSC01485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FsysrDk8X44/TZThNkAM5fI/AAAAAAAAAmI/G6QPl7dI8T8/s200/DSC01485.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSGKGjFhpxbs-QEYZ25RB_WFBNGNQLi3sK5pm0azZhdTetsv6_huSnbmIvZS-xfZIHVsCyJVW16qWAlF6z_c99cirqL3qtglR_fcL11mbZ4CIVTx_Eky0DIvm_NGMLVAk662zn_GEr5k/s1600/DSC01484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSGKGjFhpxbs-QEYZ25RB_WFBNGNQLi3sK5pm0azZhdTetsv6_huSnbmIvZS-xfZIHVsCyJVW16qWAlF6z_c99cirqL3qtglR_fcL11mbZ4CIVTx_Eky0DIvm_NGMLVAk662zn_GEr5k/s320/DSC01484.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I still waiting some components like resistor,heatsink and transformer. What a long time............</div>
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If you wanna make them, feel free for visiting<a href="http://www.nabucoeletronica.com.br/dx/blamees.html" target="_blank">PCB Layout-Schematic</a> for download schematic, pcb layout and bom.</div>
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<img border="0" src="data:image/gif,GIF89a%12%12%B3%FF%FF%FF%F7%F7%EF%CC%CC%CC%BD%BE%BD%99%99%99ZYZRUR%FE%01%02%21%F9%04%04%14%FF%2C%12%12%04X0%C8I%2B%1D8%EB%3D%E4%60%28%8A%85%17%0AG*%8C%40%19%7CJ%08%C4%B1%92%26z%C76%FE%02%07%C2%89v%F0%7Dz%C3b%C8u%14%82V5%23o%A7%13%19L%BCY-%25%7D%A6l%DF%D0%F5%C7%02%85%5B%D82%90%CBT%87%D8i7%88Y%A8%DB%EFx%8B%DE%12%01%3B" /></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-76941089593840007822011-03-13T22:16:00.000-07:002011-03-13T22:44:34.367-07:00DIY PCB and Power Supply Amplifier Part II<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
This is my other pcb that i make for power supply of Amplifier and <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/search/label/DAC">DAC</a><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b>Hiramekarei Series</b> for <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/search/label/DAC">DAC TDA1541 </a><br />
Hiramekarei psu equiped with 20 capacitors, i use 2x pcb that use 40 caps.<br />
Will feed with 2200uF/50v Panasonic FC's.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JFfMv74pvgA/TX2de8NNPbI/AAAAAAAAAi8/LAyPxtIzNmA/s1600/hiramekarei.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JFfMv74pvgA/TX2de8NNPbI/AAAAAAAAAi8/LAyPxtIzNmA/s400/hiramekarei.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiramekarei PSU</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9R_Jsd0DRj0uTm017rnAweAnT_nMaIZmRtz5kwMSsD8gDxN7O8N0n8QgCJbktZSlpp9b7jD2o5XGZ43DAY2myVyKkj7050bENg6sFJ_KxqoBrfd1w4wgi0CdHFIZcYRoaIbkj_56RtaQ/s400/DSC01377.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hiramekarei</b> PCB after etching</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/file/uwe79e5dp46hwu1/hiramekarei.pdf">Download Hiramekarei pdf</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <b>Samehada PSU</b> for my power amplifier, equiped with 8 capacitor.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Support Lug foot type, Flat foot type and L shape type of foot capacitors.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1UEI8s5IUvpY_nhV9R2U8tKB0p2vs41Ibwirdu7TKMyfBz8xu4wDL3RdaX3gWakPuws1t03CdJbq9L5OJNgBAHt1xvwHIB_KwS29ATk4jQaBt6Ju5WxPaBsPsxDA7rwmlfFBZhkgbIU/s1600/samehada.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1UEI8s5IUvpY_nhV9R2U8tKB0p2vs41Ibwirdu7TKMyfBz8xu4wDL3RdaX3gWakPuws1t03CdJbq9L5OJNgBAHt1xvwHIB_KwS29ATk4jQaBt6Ju5WxPaBsPsxDA7rwmlfFBZhkgbIU/s400/samehada.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <b>Samehada silk screen layout</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-22woHeeSkPQ/TXylrk3o4BI/AAAAAAAAAik/f3SunCuf-DA/s1600/DSC01380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-22woHeeSkPQ/TXylrk3o4BI/AAAAAAAAAik/f3SunCuf-DA/s400/DSC01380.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <b>Samehada </b>pcb after etching<b><br />
</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/file/77znhporozdtf9o/samehada.pdf">Download <b>Samehada </b>pdf</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <b>Shibuki PSU</b> applied on my Gainclone PSU. Equiped with 4 Capacitor.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This pcb is version that i use in <a href="http://hobbyaudios.blogspot.com/2011/03/power-supply-amplifier.html">diy psu part I</a> before.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIGU349tAVhFTGIVnI1gzlLa8xRDB0KzVrC61QothvifxhGGE1rg-EdrR2UQ-oleOM_FqqbGVI6yAuLXJ8jy7Pjpy37KgcjSC0B5Tf5qxMpfUgt3Q5Rfk1wjrkxO_188n04osSyp-c5o/s1600/shibuki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIGU349tAVhFTGIVnI1gzlLa8xRDB0KzVrC61QothvifxhGGE1rg-EdrR2UQ-oleOM_FqqbGVI6yAuLXJ8jy7Pjpy37KgcjSC0B5Tf5qxMpfUgt3Q5Rfk1wjrkxO_188n04osSyp-c5o/s400/shibuki.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Shibuki </b>silkscreen layout</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> I made other series called mini shibuki, suitable for minimal space of power amp box.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Also use four capacitors.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pY1Qk2pJQ18/TXylR3x_nVI/AAAAAAAAAig/hghnRINOixA/s1600/DSC01381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pY1Qk2pJQ18/TXylR3x_nVI/AAAAAAAAAig/hghnRINOixA/s400/DSC01381.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/file/bvyfddbg3hdeqdy/shibuki.pdf"><span style="font-size: small;">Download </span><b>Shibuki </b>pdf (normal version)</a></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-31322474185320511022011-03-13T03:35:00.000-07:002011-03-22T11:47:29.739-07:00Woody Koss KSC-75 with Teak Wood<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32GqTOqg_1hxBGz_PwQAzay1Mup8c53VcPDFZ3bKXAP1kKptY8H3g1uxZsiiMvpKFQzkxEgPF-U5aNgnAaYfBNfa6PCN5kMjN25E_OXljZg_0tYs01gbrd-pHA3RYVJlpgvP8A53IIq0/s1600/DSC01378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32GqTOqg_1hxBGz_PwQAzay1Mup8c53VcPDFZ3bKXAP1kKptY8H3g1uxZsiiMvpKFQzkxEgPF-U5aNgnAaYfBNfa6PCN5kMjN25E_OXljZg_0tYs01gbrd-pHA3RYVJlpgvP8A53IIq0/s400/DSC01378.JPG" width="400" /></a>Today i finish another woody project of headphone Koss KSC-75 with "grado" style based on teak wood. Headband form other cheap headphone that have same diameter in housing. I notice some improvement in staging, low area , but not optimal in the high area. This problem because i not have good damping material, next day i will try with other material that give some effect...hope the high is so good "wooden ksc-75". In few day ago i test with sony mdr-S505 MKII driver, sound more clarity,more open.vocal move forward abit. may be someday i do the Kramer Mod.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ivb__VUzlY0/TXyZymwjcjI/AAAAAAAAAiY/t_DxNZhwEMs/s1600/DSC01379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ivb__VUzlY0/TXyZymwjcjI/AAAAAAAAAiY/t_DxNZhwEMs/s640/DSC01379.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Yes! Today i enjoy this cheap bastard headphone that give good sound to me.</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNXxYYEazc26hjGeUeJLSIoEQM6j-Deoy1nywzp3a8gpDlbdsjKuFS6FdUaMtvrhLrkius796mmeEIEEw17o4DOqRSNVCXsrr7CvWgjTpFp6RKlX1iVm3Heoz9kZ2BFQ2VIdylMBll1s/s1600/DSC01383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNXxYYEazc26hjGeUeJLSIoEQM6j-Deoy1nywzp3a8gpDlbdsjKuFS6FdUaMtvrhLrkius796mmeEIEEw17o4DOqRSNVCXsrr7CvWgjTpFp6RKlX1iVm3Heoz9kZ2BFQ2VIdylMBll1s/s640/DSC01383.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-60577668709911080482011-03-13T03:00:00.000-07:002011-04-02T08:48:25.283-07:00Another Fake Capacitor<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"> I've been found this capacitor inside my Sansui AU-555A Stereo Integrated Amplifier, like someone have been replaced original caps (may be old caps is dead / leakage) before i buy that amp. Unfornately the capacitor is ELNA mark on big/huge body, well i curious about that. O we'll see it now.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7ESNejNO_s1Z6RJcEdMsFOEedhMjKLU_CfRKr6UTO5Nk77tlUzOQQevC5SHkSSiWTV3AkFX6cAZErjVywYF7QkMLhpJTVoKrK1ihqkmZ9lGKQoO26EiPtGctcCIAiuYHLGUmqFb8SqA/s1600/DSC01371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7ESNejNO_s1Z6RJcEdMsFOEedhMjKLU_CfRKr6UTO5Nk77tlUzOQQevC5SHkSSiWTV3AkFX6cAZErjVywYF7QkMLhpJTVoKrK1ihqkmZ9lGKQoO26EiPtGctcCIAiuYHLGUmqFb8SqA/s640/DSC01371.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">We see in the printed body is ELNA 10.000 uF/80v, but in datasheet we never found it. Then i make sure what capacity is? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1nxcq-ABANM/TXyRq9yiFLI/AAAAAAAAAiA/qvaA0Kn2TSY/s1600/DSC01374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1nxcq-ABANM/TXyRq9yiFLI/AAAAAAAAAiA/qvaA0Kn2TSY/s640/DSC01374.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Yeah...i caught it, only 4.38 in scale that mean 4380 uF, Oh well. This damn thing is fake. I not satisfied until brake capacitor to investigate, what is inside? from my hand is heavy like original one, but i found again that inside capactor on half volume is something like black rubber,or hard bitumen. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhW-FjHmreIalcUQNd3NH1wv5JRsk7bUDBS3uWrEcLHz70Gh98u42o8h1bEzy1HNooGjwOM30llRMUbIF7c4PVemv0TFboO1xnrmwP8PonYFN1q91_Fkou95V-K5dzTmWSyGpiwUcH0Q/s1600/DSC01376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhW-FjHmreIalcUQNd3NH1wv5JRsk7bUDBS3uWrEcLHz70Gh98u42o8h1bEzy1HNooGjwOM30llRMUbIF7c4PVemv0TFboO1xnrmwP8PonYFN1q91_Fkou95V-K5dzTmWSyGpiwUcH0Q/s640/DSC01376.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Becareful if you wanna buy capacitor,may be they're Counterfeit Capacitors?<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: small; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: arial,'helvetica neue',helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left;"></span></span> please recheck again price/physic condition of capacitor or other sign in capacitor body that contain some informations.<br />
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This is a good example for comparing counterfeit and real one on youtube.com <br />
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<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px;"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/yKPyf7O8Uyg?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/yKPyf7O8Uyg?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-28303171791203765682011-03-05T17:57:00.000-08:002011-03-05T18:11:35.973-08:00Salas Shunt Regulator With Chu Moy Head Amp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_2l2B5UUO4Ux8lRBX-HA8Fgaj-AGJCuug06pG4VvL5iRzT8nLG-5SU4s8vjiktrSqca13hQeF-dr-Md-L1o0ZVKwAVdEEaT438r9gmjzNI5YXL9lkUSjhEL-2Xse6TO24gP3avLYMqw/s1600/DSC01219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_2l2B5UUO4Ux8lRBX-HA8Fgaj-AGJCuug06pG4VvL5iRzT8nLG-5SU4s8vjiktrSqca13hQeF-dr-Md-L1o0ZVKwAVdEEaT438r9gmjzNI5YXL9lkUSjhEL-2Xse6TO24gP3avLYMqw/s640/DSC01219.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">before fire up cmoy , a curious project</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Little idea is make my little chu moy [cmoy] headphone amplifier running with non DC/Battery. I have been buid B1 Buffer with Salas Shunt Reg module, the pcb is diy execpt chu moy. I just use power supply section that use IRF's Mosfet, say IRFP9240 and complementary IRFP240 (2 pairs). Other components as describe in picture.<br />
I fired up chu moy amp, everything is OK, no hum or noise, clear as crystal sounding. I just to try, not my recomendation for desktop amplifier (headphone amp desktop), because you will pay more expensive in powersupply section. <i>Not serious , but curious project.</i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphenDlXm_FKgB3Qsap0yVVHTuP_MmYAJv4NTyxShmatZORe2m5yMdyGQ7vZDN-tfRfZLmTVfzLhL6Ca4qsTo3c3KsyNhuMg72UdWRKLvWKA7uDz5THUK8ZaVulMuh5V4K4Z6YVJ4Z1MkEM/s1600/DSC01230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphenDlXm_FKgB3Qsap0yVVHTuP_MmYAJv4NTyxShmatZORe2m5yMdyGQ7vZDN-tfRfZLmTVfzLhL6Ca4qsTo3c3KsyNhuMg72UdWRKLvWKA7uDz5THUK8ZaVulMuh5V4K4Z6YVJ4Z1MkEM/s640/DSC01230.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chu moy[cmoy] fired up with salas shunt regulator</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-40742701980946238762011-03-05T17:21:00.000-08:002011-03-13T21:52:51.243-07:00DIY PCB and Power Supply Amplifier I<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><a href="http://goo.gl/photos/8LmeG4tfra" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mlNoueXm4VAsZoDylZQiwH2_3qO9y1Ooa1OIIuj8TEYlyknqgTrM3EVAxDfKkx2CI-mkXWXVMPpb5LP_1PTq2fThVQY5HLjM6LDmEqWCdRS-PmB8FMvmsEROaDsimQ93Ekh-PFcSywM/s640/DSC01363.JPG" width="640" /> </a><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">This day I finished my diy PCB Power Supply 4 capacitor (Quadro Supply). The method is transfer paper, i use photo paper 120gr, then print with laserjet on print side, result is like in picture. The next process is cleaning pcb with sand paper (a little) then wash with water, dry it. Use smoothing iron for tack the picture on pcb then wait until cold, soaking in water,done. Next step is use HCL<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> (hydrochloric acid)</span></i>+H<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2</span>O<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2</span> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>(hydrogen peroxyde)</i></span>. Composition is <span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;">used 40% HCL, and 30% H2O2 stock solutions. <span style="font-size: small;">Finish with soaking in water again, and becarefull with acid. After that drill holes on pc and don't forget to laminate under side pcb with mask, can use solder, or paint spay (clear or dull type).</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g5gim03rbmo/TXLYKdKmVLI/AAAAAAAAAf8/MTIBOhUXHAQ/s1600/DSC01369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="536" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g5gim03rbmo/TXLYKdKmVLI/AAAAAAAAAf8/MTIBOhUXHAQ/s640/DSC01369.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Everything is done, populate with some components, then i test with small trafo's 12v.As seen on picture seem normal and nice.</span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> This Link is for Silkscreen/componenets value. </span></span></span></div><a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?n5k98zyiu9603od">http://www.mediafire.com/?n5k98zyiu9603od</a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-5916994888116796292011-03-01T10:25:00.000-08:002011-03-05T00:10:07.634-08:00My Capacitor Collection<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ba3CdLok4UY/TTx3kqQbR1I/AAAAAAAAANA/5KzJxJAwCDw/s1600/DSC01256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ba3CdLok4UY/TTx3kqQbR1I/AAAAAAAAANA/5KzJxJAwCDw/s320/DSC01256.JPG" width="320" /></a>This is my few collection of capacitor Elna Silmic, Ssilmic II,Starget, Duorex, RJH, and Cerafine . Elna capacitor code are Elna ROA, ROS, ROD and RFS (Tonerex, Cerafine, Starget, Silmic I/II, etc.). Nichicon Muse BP, Fne Gold, Gold Tune (KG). Also other caps like black gate F series, BHC, sprague, panasonic, ero vishay...not forget for Nippon Chemicon (UCC) and Mundorf M-Lytic .</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Qjx46K5FPELVKYCNiOMb4kzpX9yzWJR20naByB0f2WqZ__mpLACilgzqlQnxYV1-uzT3tXMvmOyH0eLUGKeMz4_hyphenhyphenHELgyzDtuUhFCR_ezShrTTtxzZRhQ0AjPW9iplhF1l5FbWzfQ/s1600/DSC01257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Qjx46K5FPELVKYCNiOMb4kzpX9yzWJR20naByB0f2WqZ__mpLACilgzqlQnxYV1-uzT3tXMvmOyH0eLUGKeMz4_hyphenhyphenHELgyzDtuUhFCR_ezShrTTtxzZRhQ0AjPW9iplhF1l5FbWzfQ/s400/DSC01257.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSMDeXaSdpedSW2b3BI2qSbr1rIgShqGsQWgHLwrHOUzCsuF45b838Nuz5To2zfLxelmXZGupQADRDygItinpmESJ4Ao18QTprUFWqUwsBJYaqfL5rIADDcbAY-simrHkkazXbn-5ifk/s1600/DSC01246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0e0UOJNV2taRLbkeykeXTFET0ELV-wTiuCBR9kcqeB3NwB3t_zNe-ZCP7Cras-CDiFHtMD2oYkfvXBcKkk4Kov4Fx-WP3n1jHGA0m6j0kifSXC7OYfwJNRkly1NyRb4IZH-9qoj4fIo/s1600/DSC01245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0e0UOJNV2taRLbkeykeXTFET0ELV-wTiuCBR9kcqeB3NwB3t_zNe-ZCP7Cras-CDiFHtMD2oYkfvXBcKkk4Kov4Fx-WP3n1jHGA0m6j0kifSXC7OYfwJNRkly1NyRb4IZH-9qoj4fIo/s400/DSC01245.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-89983116601322252182011-03-01T08:59:00.000-08:002011-03-01T08:59:02.709-08:00Headphone Woody Project<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"> I was inspired by my friend to make some different material of my standard headphone Sony S505 MKII ,an oldish / retro headphone that i buy cheaper on old watchstore. I plan to make housing from <i>teak wood </i>in indonesian languange called Kayu Jati (<i>Tectona grandis</i> L.f.) .</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> Below is picture , i have not finished yet until this article show, may be next week I finished this little project.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuwr2PaNqzBGRm0D2Ywv0p-TWX7lGsIlp01jExWa5kJUnhStiZzB0HVxR3l8ISshIO6xwQixVaOlZayxrTiM-X2UZudvlgnV6yGJPCZlMjUwJWs_WSOOrVzbyVpNWiithFl5htIn07ro/s1600/DSC01329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuwr2PaNqzBGRm0D2Ywv0p-TWX7lGsIlp01jExWa5kJUnhStiZzB0HVxR3l8ISshIO6xwQixVaOlZayxrTiM-X2UZudvlgnV6yGJPCZlMjUwJWs_WSOOrVzbyVpNWiithFl5htIn07ro/s640/DSC01329.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
I will update more pictures soon .... <br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-74447496762827962542011-02-17T13:14:00.000-08:002011-02-17T13:20:31.320-08:00How much Your LED voltage?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://goo.gl/photos/QsCQ7IaGvx" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LpvIeBwSD4k/TVzFwFSdOxI/AAAAAAAAAZU/GtuojNV1mVg/s640/DSC01316.JPG" width="592" /></a></div></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">Just share about testing of LED voltage, many friends ask me how to check voltage of LED, then I make simple tool from 8 dip pin converter, 1 K resistor and alligator clip for holding the pins / check voltage with DMM. Hope this thing useful for matching LED or J-Fet .</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_LpvIeBwSD4k/TVzGdr59XcI/AAAAAAAAAZY/220AUJrDLzg/s912/DSC01318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_LpvIeBwSD4k/TVzGdr59XcI/AAAAAAAAAZY/220AUJrDLzg/s640/DSC01318.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-43661679741924327632011-02-17T12:46:00.000-08:002011-02-17T13:24:25.112-08:00Original SANKEN's Transistor For "The Red" Project!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://goo.gl/photos/A2vFnzfIp9" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_BXuSQOis-Id4QI5zFbTSM_0LD0N4ycoYOVQd5J5kgFwLk3QMNbZSeHkfy9h_NyB940Ub_EX4tzuM8okm2c7kDINxQXWtnwliK-W6IUUWDLulWjmIzYQpZFTuCWfGuBdc5UqTlucm6M/s640/DSC01252.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
I get this trannies( Sankens) from Surabaya. I'm sure that sankens is original, from the marking and from trusted seller. I double check again the marking with original ones form sanken / diy sites. Well, we will see if i place trannies on my power amp red pcb's. :D . (pair of 2SA1216 and 2SC2922).</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-8290061055422018332011-02-17T12:30:00.000-08:002011-03-21T10:52:57.383-07:00Little LM1875 Amp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://goo.gl/photos/NVIne8oljL" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhlv8v-KSX76xEd4wzCSu-H6qQAv0Lq0m6q0BHhaIlBuudr7bcmkk0WvHxi4NrfZWFwITJLPoWqItg8mQ1nu35GgMUQ8FbeV8jcDzrr_qNi0f5Ql9mVdGn81W25rRj7J21bxXSFf45nBI/s512/DSC01249.JPG" /> </a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This is my simple version of power amp based chip amplifier LM1875, the pcb's small enough to fits small parts and ic LM's.This chip amp LM1875 is NOS, i get them on small electronics shop in small city, small budget friends! hahaha. Minus from pcb is input capacitor, i will add later / separately with close track or solder directly on input female rca. I've been check and sounds is so so...dc offsets not checked / later. </div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-87796475123681407702011-01-30T03:32:00.000-08:002011-03-06T16:20:45.213-08:00Capacitor Datasheet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">This page is dedicated for capacitor datasheet or information. So don't miss if you choose good caps!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bVOnc_Sj-aU/TUVNJv6wCMI/AAAAAAAAAgg/KJtdPlveYZE/s1600/elna2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bVOnc_Sj-aU/TUVNJv6wCMI/AAAAAAAAAgg/KJtdPlveYZE/s640/elna2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-56477288224299035372011-01-28T20:22:00.000-08:002011-01-28T20:22:57.592-08:00How Resistor Sound Matter?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="color: red; text-align: justify;"><i>This article is copyied from Randall Aiken http://www.aikenamps.com/ResistorNoise.htm</i></div><div style="color: red; text-align: justify;"><i>for learn and I will make conclusion about Sound of Resistor .....</i></div><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>General</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The subject of resistor types comes up quite often in guitar amplifier discussions. Some people will recommend only using carbon composition resistors, others will tell you that metal film resistors are better. Who is correct? Well, the answer depends on what your design goals are. From a noise aspect, there are several things to take into consideration.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Resistor noise is made up of three main types: thermal, contact, and shot noise. Thermal noise is mainly dependent on temperature, bandwidth, and resistance, while shot noise is dependent on bandwidth and average DC current, and contact noise is dependent upon average DC current, bandwidth, material geometry and type.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Wirewound resistors are the quietest, having only thermal noise, followed by metal film, metal oxide, carbon film, and lastly, carbon composition.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Following is a description of each type of noise, along with methods of reducing its impact on the circuit, along with some general guidelines for low-noise amplifier design.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>Thermal noise</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The thermal noise of a resistor is equal to:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vt = SQRT(4kTBR)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">where:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vt = the rms noise voltage</div><div style="text-align: justify;">k = Boltzmann's constant (1.38∙10-23)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">T = temperature (Kelvin - room temperature = 300K)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">B = noise bandwidth (Hz - typical audio bandwidth = 20kHz, typical guitar amp bandwidth = 5-10kHz)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">R = resistance (ohms)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Since the characteristics of thermal noise have a Gaussian probability density function, and the noise of the two separate sources is uncorrelated white noise, the total noise power is equal to the sum of the individual noise powers. If you model the individual resistors as noise generators, the output noise voltage will be equal to the square root of the sum of the squares of the individual noise sources.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The above equation shows that the noise varies in direct proportion to the square root of the resistance, so if you take two resistors of half the value and square the square root and add them and take the square root of the sum, you end up with the exact same value as you would if you took the square root of a single resistor of twice the value. Therefore, the total noise remains the same.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In general, the thermal noise of any connection of passive elements is equal to the thermal noise that would result from the real part of the equivalent total impedance. If we are dealing with pure resistances, the thermal noise is equal to the thermal noise produced by an equivalent resistance. Therefore, the thermal noise of a 1K carbon resistor is the same as a 1K metal film; it is independent of material. The only way to reduce this noise is to reduce the resistance value. This is why you don't want those 10 Meg resistors on your input stage.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">For example, using the above equation with a 1Meg resistor, a bandwidth of 10kHz, and room temperature (300K), you get a noise voltage of 12.9uV. If this resistor is on the front end of a typical non-master Marshall, which has a gain of around 83dB (14,125) at 1kHz with all controls at mid and the bright volume at full, you'll get around 0.182V of noise at the 16 ohm output tap. That might not sound like much, but run the numbers for your average high-gain amp, and it starts to add up quickly. It helps that the typical guitar amp pickup impedance is lower than 1Meg, and is in parallel with the input resistor, so it tends to swamp this noise source</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>Contact noise</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Contact noise is dependent on both average DC current and resistor material/size. The most significant contributor to noise in guitar amplifiers is the use of low-wattage carbon composition resistors. Since the noise is proportional to resistor size, the use of 2W carbon comp resistors will improve the performance over that of 1/2W resistors. Studies have shown a factor of 3 difference between a 1/2W and a 2W carbon comp resistor operating at the same conditions.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The predominant noise in carbon comp, carbon film, metal oxide, and metal film is composed of contact noise, which can be very large at low frequencies because it has a 1/f frequency characteristic. Wirewound resistors do not have this noise, only resistors made of carbon particles or films. This noise is directly proportional to both the current flowing in the resistance and a constant that depends upon the material the resistor is made of.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">If no current (AC or DC) flows in the resistor, the noise is equal to the thermal noise. The contact noise increases as the current is increased. This means that for low noise operation, the DC and AC currents should be kept low.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The material and geometry of the resistor can greatly affect the contact noise. Therefore, if you double the power rating of the resistor, which increases the size and area, you will reduce the contact noise generated by the resistor.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>Shot noise</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Shot noise is dependent upon current, so the more average DC current through a resistor, the more noise you get. In order to reduce this type of noise, you must keep the DC current to a minimum. This is best done in the first amplifier stage or in low-level stages such as reverb-recovery amps, where it is the most critical. Unfortunately, higher DC currents usually sound better in tubes, so it is a tradeoff. Best practice is to use a wirewound or metal film in these applications, unless you are making a high-frequency amp where the inductance of the wirewound resistor comes into play. This is not generally a factor in guitar amps.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>Conclusions</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In general, for low-noise design:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Keep resistance values low, because thermal noise is directly proportional to resistance value.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Wirewound resistors are the best choice for noise, followed by metal film, metal oxide, carbon film, and lastly, carbon composition. However, wirewound resistors are not readily available in large resistance values, and are usually inductive, which can cause instability problems in some cases. Bear in mind, however, that many people prefer the "sound" of carbon comps, claiming they sound warmer than film or wirewound types. This is possibly due to distortions generated by the modulation of the contact noise current by the AC signal. Since this noise has a 1/f frequency characteristic (similar to pink noise), it is more pleasing to the ear than white noise. However, pleasing noise is still noise, and in my opinion, it should be reduced to the lowest possible level. The signal distortion is a different topic altogether.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Use the largest practical wattage resistors (unless you are using wirewound resistors) because contact noise is decreased in a larger geometry material.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Keep the DC and AC currents to a minimum because contact noise is proportional to current.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Don't forget that potentiometers are also resistive elements, and are almost always carbon composition, and generally are large values (such as 1MEG for the volume control). These can be a major source of noise in a guitar amplifier. For absolute lowest noise, conductive plastic element pots should be used, again, the lowest practical value, and the largest practical power rating.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* The first stage of an amplifier is the most critical; in order to maximize the overall amplifier signal-to-noise ratio, the first stage gain should be maximized. This will raise the signal level farther above the noise floor of following stages. Triodes can be paralleled to increase the signal-to-noise ratio. This is because the noise sources of the two triodes are uncorrelated and add as the square root of the sum of the squares of the individual noise sources, while the signal is correlated and adds directly, giving a 3dB improvement in signal-to-noise ratio. Pentode input stages should be avoided if possible, because they suffer from another type of noise, division noise, caused by the insertion of the screen grid element into the electron path between the cathode and the plate. If very high gain is needed, the self-biased cascode stage is the preferred method, as it has the same or higher gain than a pentode, but no extra noise. In addition, the cascode connection does not suffer from the high microphonics of the most common pentode, the EF86. The self-biased cascode approach is better than the fixed biasing of the upper tube grid because it eliminates the direct influence of the DC supply on the upper tube grid, and has a warmer tone.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><u><b>A few practical notes:</b></u></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Since high-quality metal film resistors are more expensive than cheaper carbon films, a player may want a quieter amp without having to change all the resistors to metal film. From the above information, a few general rules can be determined, and a compromise can be reached.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Since noise is proportional to resistor value, the 1Meg to ground resistor on the first stage of a guitar amplifier will create much more noise than the 68K grid resistor, because the value is 14.7 times larger. This means that carbon comp vs. metal film is more noticeable and important for the 1Meg resistor than the 68K input resistor. However, when a guitar is plugged in to the amplifier, the pickup resistance/inductance and cable capacitance is in parallel with the 1Meg grid resistor, so its effect on noise is greatly reduced. When the guitar is unplugged or turned all the way down, the 68K series grid resistor becomes the predominant noise source. Depending on the tube type and input stage topology, the resistor noise may be greater than the tube's referred input noise. To reduce the noise to a minimum, use the smallest possible input grid resistor value that still provides RF suppression.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Also, since resistor noise is proportional to current flow, a 100K grid resistor is going to be quieter than a 100K used as a plate resistor. There is around 1 to 2 mA of current flow in a typical plate circuit, but the grid current flow is practically negligible. This means that it is better to use metal film for plate resistors. The exception to this rule comes when two resistors are used as a voltage divider from the plate of one tube to the grid of the other. There is no grid current flowing, but there is current flowing in the voltage divider string, so metal films should be used in these positions for lowest noise.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">* Lastly, the noise contribution is greatest at low-level stages, such as input stages, reverb recovery stages, and effects loop recovery stages, so the plate resistors, grid-to-ground resistors, and grid divider attenuation resistors in these locations should be metal films for lowest noise, while locations where there is little gain from that point to the output can use noisier resistors without adding too much to the overall noise level of the amplifier, because the signal level at that point is many times greater than the noise level produced by the resistors.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">One more consideration for resistors: it is sometimes overlooked that resistors have a max voltage rating. The 1/2 watters and some 1 watters usually are only rated for 250-350V. Be sure to get a resistor rated for the appropriate voltage in the amplifier. I use only 1W, 500V min (continuous, 1000V surge) or 2W, 750V rated resistors.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Copyright © 1999-2009 Randall Aiken. May not be reproduced in any form without written approval from Aiken Amplification.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Revised 08/03/09</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-9676284642681507712011-01-24T11:55:00.000-08:002011-01-24T11:59:53.026-08:00Rim Banna يا ليل ما أطولك<iframe width="425" height="344" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/5uNfP9yKMHE?fs=1" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-weight:bold;">O Night, how long you are,<br />
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You have made me walk barefoot,<br />
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Scales, how heavy you are,<br />
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You have bowed my shoulders,<br />
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My heart is worn away, for your sakes, it is worn away,<br />
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And our dark hair, O my mother, has turned white,<br />
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And our fair hair, O my mother, has faded.<br />
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Don't believe our exile has lengthened, O mother,<br />
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And that we have forgotten you -<br />
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The longer our exile is, the more we remember you.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7764029729769056594.post-25686026693776299192011-01-24T10:27:00.000-08:002011-03-21T10:59:42.583-07:00My LM3875 PCB's<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yHOoGAhqeAA/TTxyUAnDJ6I/AAAAAAAAALo/c67y4kFcQAI/s1600/DSC01235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yHOoGAhqeAA/TTxyUAnDJ6I/AAAAAAAAALo/c67y4kFcQAI/s640/DSC01235.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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This is my Gainclone PCB'S LM3875 with both configuration, inverting and non inverting .... will be populated with some parts....<br />
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<div style="color: blue;"><b>Updated picture with some parts...</b></div><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"> With this parts I get extra high DC offset... 600mV WoooW, are you serious fery? hahaha dc offset is from value of resistor Sfernice 162K 1%, immediately I change to Takman carbon 22K 2% tolerance. dc offset going down to around 58mV, seem high to me. hehehehe, then I populate some parts R5 and C2 also bypassed C2 with evox rifa 0,1uF. Result is fantastic, dc offset drop to 2mV, for both channel. I think is enough for me that have thinking dc offset must be under 10mV in some condition must below 5mV.</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1